By George Bojaciuk
While you are into development scale version muscle autos, American Iron from the mid-late 1960's in the course of the early 1970's then this publication is for you. distinct textual content and images of build-ups of many iconic Muscle autos together with the Yenko Camaro, Oldsmobile 442 W-30, 1970 Chevy Monte Carlo SS454, and so forth. additionally contains are information and strategies which are helpful for any scale version builder. even though a number of the elements details is dated, the abilities, principles, and methods taught within the ebook are undying. there's additionally a good part giving a short reference on engine wiring for the most important American V8's of the time. That reference by myself is sort of well worth the expense of the book.
for those who purely might buy one primer on critical muscle motor vehicle modeling, this could be your choice.
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Extra info for Building and Detailing Scale Model Muscle Cars
Next, I decided to tackle the problem of the consoled interior. If you really want a console, just leave it in and save yourself a lot of conversion work. I chose to remove the console by trimming around its perimeter with the back of a no. 11 X-acto blade. Try to make many light passes around the console, remove a small fait of plastic with each pass, and eventually the console will pop right out. Cover the opening with masking tape, turn the interior over, and fill the hole with epoxy. The epoxy will flow into the hole and conform to the masking tape mold.
16, and the Motion emblem from Motion sheet no. 23. S&S Specialties photoetched hood pins replaced the molded ones. I made lanyards from silver wire strand that I fed through the glued clip, twisted, and then attached to the underside of the hood—and no, they do not actually work. I thought I would try to build and detail the engine last and in the engine compartment; this kit lent itself to this method since the entire front end is open. The kit engine is nice, but did not have a Lakewood scatter shield attached.
I sprayed the exhaust system with Testor's Metalizer stainless steel using a two-step process—first the color coat, then the sealer. If you don't use the sealer, don't be surprised when the paint rubs away with routine handling.