By Matthew David Greenman
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Extra resources for Design and construction of a miniature internal combustion engine
The shirts were painted in Humbrol enamels and shaded using Payne’s Grey oil paint mixed with enamels. Walk around a Frog A perfectly restored Frog at the RAAC Museum at Puckapunyal, Victoria, Australia. Note the red fording lines, as they would have appeared during the war. This Mk IV Matilda Frog carries markings of the 2/1st Armoured Brigade Recce Squadron, 4th Armoured Brigade. (MG). The port side of the same Frog. (MG) The insignia of the 4th Australian Armoured Brigade. (MG) A well preserved Frog housed at the Melbourne Tank Museum in Narre Warren, Victoria, Australia.
The two most popular types of paint are enamel and acrylic. Which type you use is a matter of personal choice, as opposed to one type being ‘better’ than the other, as both have their positive and negative aspects. Enamel-based paints (such as Humbrol, and XtraColour) tend to dry with a matt finish, are generally porous in nature, take longer to dry, and need to be mixed well before being applied. Acrylic paints (such as Tamiya, Vallejo and Gunze) dry in a matter of minutes, are relatively easy to work with (clean-up is minimal), but sometimes dry with a glossy or semi-glossy finish.
With the pastels applied, the tracks and wheels were also weathered using enamels and pastels. (CM) The kit is now complete and ready for display on a scenic base. (CM) When dry-brushing, there are a few tips to keep in mind. The brush should never be cleaned with thinners during the process, and the paints should not be thinned. It is also better to work through the process with too little paint on the brush than too much. If you reach a point where you think the kit requires just one more dry-brushing treatment, it is probably time to stop: it is better not to overdo it!